The Azores of Portugal: Expat Paradise Off the Beaten Path
Perfection does exist in retirement without any lifestyle compromise. This perfection is found in the Azores. My name is Casey Hartnett and I had been searching over the last five years for the perfect island retirement location. My search took me through Asia, Central America, South America, the Caribbean, and of course, the United States. My grading criteria were extremely harsh and no place could come close to passing the comprehensive final. There were good characteristics of each country I visited but not enough that could justify a permanent residence.The cost of living could be low but the crime was terrible, or the crime was low but the heat was unbearable, etc. Nothing had it all, that is, until I stumbled upon the Azores.
One of the gorgeous views at Lago Do Fogo.
The Azores is a group of islands in the middle of the Atlantic made up of nine islands situated an hour and a half flight fromLisbon and about a five-hour flight from Boston.The Azores hasa subtropical climate that enjoys pleasant temperatures all year round with mild wintersof temperatures in the 60s and warm summers in the 70s.The islands are one of the two autonomous regions of Portugal,which have one of the lowest tax rates in Europe and incredible incentives for foreigners to start businesses. The islands can best be described to Americans or Canadians as the Hawaii of the Atlantic, unspoiled by commercialism, at 1/10 of the price with more beauty, abundance, and quality of life. Each island has its own unique characteristics.Flores is covered in flowers and waterfalls, Sao Miguel & Sao Jorgehavelush jungles and indescribable natural wonders, Pico is a meeting spot for whales all over the world and has one of the tallest mountains in the world measured from base to peak.
The sub-tropical climate offers pleasant temperatures all year round.
Upon researching & critiquing everything I could find on the Azores, it was perfect on paper. Not only did it pass the final but with extra credit. The weather, the culture, cost of living, real estate, nightlife, gastronomy, infrastructure, low cost of health insurance, organic and fresh food, stable economy, ancient architecture, bilingual population, championship surfing, hiking, mountain biking, whale watching, scuba diving, sailing, kite surfing, and paragliding, just to name a few activities andcharacteristics are all world class. Not to mention it is the center of the developed world between the United States and Europe with many direct flightsthroughout. Needless to say to more, I was on a flight the next week and visited the islands for two months. When I returned to the US, I put my house up for sale, applied for a Visa, took care of my dog’s paperwork and moved here five months later and have not looked back. The entire process with a Visa was less hassle than waiting in line at the DMV, but a Visa is not required as I found out after being here for several months.
The Azores offer much more than just beautiful beaches - ancient architecture can be found throughout the islands.
Since arriving, every day has been as amazing as the day before. The most difficult decision in the morning is to go surfing, hiking, sailing, diving, kayaking, snorkeling, or wind surfing. All activities are either within a thirty second walk to the marina and beach or a fifteen-minute drive to the mountains from the town of Vila Franca Do Campo. Vila Franca Do Campo is the town I eventually fell in love with on the south side of the Island. In Vila Franca, all the local Azoreans I have met have been extremely helpful and accommodating and it has been a very easy transition to feel at home quickly. The point of life in the Azores is to enjoy life without all the unnecessary stresses that seem to be typical in western culture. Here, everyone works only enough to enjoy life. If work interferes with beach or party time, it will not last long.
There is much more to be said about the Azores. However, anyone who is looking for a semi retirement destination with adventure above or below the water, values a rich culture and quality of life, loves food, enjoys a clean environment, and wants to live free with little stress should highly consider the Azores.
Stop Looking South, Look East To The Middle of the Atlantic
What awaits you is what you have been looking for and daydreaming about for years. Do not let the propaganda of Central and South America be the only benchmarks for your retirement search. There are better locations, safe,culturally vibrant, affordable locations, with an excellent quality of life waiting for you at absolutely no lifestyle compromise. Right now, Europe is on sale and one of the most breathtaking natural wonders in the world that very few Americans and Europeans know about sits between Boston and Lisbon.
The most appealing Volcanic Area in the World according toWorld Travel Guide.
National Geographic Traveler selected the Archipelago as the second best islands in the world for Sustainable Tourismout of 111 islands evaluated.
Lonely Planet named the Archipelago as one of the best destinations in the World.
In 2010, Forbes magazine named this Archipelago as a Unique Travelling Destination.
In 2011, BBC Travel named this Archipelago one of five most secret islands of the World.
National Geographic Traveler acknowledged the Archipelago as one of the 50 best tours to take in Europe of a Lifetime in 2012.
The Nottingham University Magazine elected this Archipelago as one of the best places to go to in 2012.
Budget Travel elected this destination as one of the best budget destinations for 2012.
The archipelago holds the official status of Quality Coast Destination – being the most sustainable coastal destination in Europe to spend holidays, contains several UNESCO World Heritage Sites, Project “Life Priolo”award winner, “Best of the Best – Nature” from the European Union, and the list goes on… and you probably still have no idea, it’s ok. There are hundreds of millions of dollars aimed at promoting your social security checks for direct deposit in Central and South America it is not your fault this place has not been presented to you until now.
This magical destination is one of the two autonomous regions of Portugal and is named the Azores. For a semi retired, burned out American who was living downtown in a big city, the Azores is everything I had been searching for the last eight years. The charm of the islands, physically and culturally, will embrace you and there will be nothing you can do to fill the void once you experience it but become an implant. Since space is limited in this article, I want to introduce some of the basic landscapes of several islands. In future publications, I will expand on the prudent and analytical decision processes that makethe Azores hands down one of the best decisions you can make in your lifetime personally and fiscally with the emphasis on no compromise for quality of life.
The Azores is a group of nine islands in the middle of the Atlantic situated an hour and a half flight from Lisbon and about a five-hour flight from Boston. The Azores has a subtropical climate that enjoys pleasant temperatures all year round with mild winters of temperatures in the sixties and warm summers in the seventies. The islands physically can best be described as the Hawaii of the Atlantic, unspoiled by commercialism with European villages dotting the coastline that date back to the 1400s, with more beauty and abundance in nature. Unlike Central and South America, there are no poisonous insects or snakes on the island or mosquitos that dominate the night. Andlike Hawaii, each island has its own unique characteristics.
First, is Flores Island, known as the flower islandand is covered in flowers and waterfalls that rise from sea level to over a thousand feet.It is the most remote island of the Azores and its physical beauty is a mix of romance with savage nature. Throughout the interior of the island, there are huge peaks and imposing cliffs with deep valleysforming lagoons and natural hot springs with waterfalls feeding into them. Within the cities you may find yourself with the background noise of water mills next to manicured streams with an occasional horse carriage passing, visually stunned at the white houses with the natural backdrop and radiant color.One of the most beautiful areas of the island is near the town of Fajazinha, where a large waterfall several hundred meters high is met by twenty other waterfalls causing rainbows to appear over the deep green mountainside. Flores is a place of imagination and will change anyone’s depiction of reality.
Next, is the island where whales from all around the world come to call home, has one of the tallest peaks in Europe, and a wine lovers paradise, Pico.It is difficult to say the island has the most dramatic landscape, but it would be one of the top three. “Born from the Sea,” composed of lava rock, exotic vegetation, a mountain peak extending beyond the clouds, UNESCO historical vineyards lining the roads, and ocean views that include the islands of Sao Jorge and Faial, Pico is an island of fairy tale with Giants. Whale watching in Pico is probably the most underrated spot in the entire world.Blue whales, sperm whales, humpback whales, whale sharks (I know, not a whale), numerous species of dolphins, and many other species below the surface including sharks and mantas call Pico home. When encountering these giants, it is on a rubber raft in extremely close proximity with the chance to swim with the dolphins, which their pods can exceed one thousand. Swimming with 700 dolphins in Pico was one of the most memorable moments in my life. After being mesmerized by the sea, the vineyards will transport you into another experience. All wine making goes back hundreds of years with care given to each grape and a sense of pride that is found only through tradition. Food and wine is the competitive sport in Pico and as an expat you will be invited everywhere to be the judge. It is an Island oftranquility with world-class activities. You can sample your neighbor’s wine while watching pods of dolphins from your patio, trek up a 7000 ft. mountain, or dive with Devil Rays.
Lastly, I wanted to introduce my home island, Sao Miguel, ”The Green Island.”This is the largest of the islands at 293 square mileswith a population of150,000. Sao Miguel by far is the most enchanting island as it has the allcharacteristics of the Archipelago in one islandwith the most to offer. I often joke that there is more variety here than in the Continental United States, and it is not far from the truth. You can spend as much time doing things as you have available. Sao Miguel has multiple world class hiking destinations such as; Sete Cuidades, Logoa do Fogo, and Furnas that will leave you breathless and are ranked as some of the most incredible natural wonders in the World (remember all the testimonials above?). The surfing rivals Hawaii with perfect waves and no crowd here bra. Windsurfing, sailing, diving, kite surfing, kayaking, fishing, snorkeling, boating, whale & dolphin watching, and body boarding are also very popular aquatic activities.Along the coast are beautiful beaches dwarfed below the cliffswith many natural swimming pools. Lakes, waterfalls, and hot springs are also abundant but its best quality is the people. This is the first place I have lived where I feel at home. Nobody has any hidden agenda and is genuinely great people. Everywhere on the island you go anyone will go out of their way to help you and make sure you feel welcomed and at home. There is much more to be said about the people and culture, beginning to describe the beauty is a difficult task.
There are other islands of the Azores that are just as remarkable that I did not discuss and I am sorry for this. If this article caught your interest feel free to email me any questions you have. There will also be additional topics in the future that are more in depth. This is truly the last great place in the world. The Azores inspires imagination and is unlike any destination. Once you come here, you will not be disappointed and will start your retirement planning immediately after.
https://www.facebook.com/ExclusiveAzores
casey@globalseafoodbrokers.com
I was in Praia da Vitória, Terceira back in 1997 on a deployment. Landed at Lajes Field and spent the day with a
Sgt with the local police. Had a great time. He took me to where that statue of the Virgin Mary, had lunch, then we went to Angra. The people are the friendliest of all Europeans. They do not have a Pensionado Program like Panama, and I believe it isn’t cheap, especially to fly on commercial. Also, I think you can’t get a clear title on real estate. If they were heading towards the same direction as Panama, I’d move there in a heart beat.
Casey,
Fine article. Couldn’t agree more on what you’ve said here about the Azores and Azoreans. You are preaching to the choir. Visited on a US Navy ship in 1966, again via SATA in 2009, and will again in March 2013. I will make Sao Miguel my home when I retire in 3 1/2 years, and am taking Portuguese lessons to make that transition easier. I would like to hear about your experiences at Serviço de Estrangeiros e Fronteiras, for example how soon can a retiree get permanent residency?
Thank you.
Sorry, meant to reply to Casey of course.
At Louis. I spent two weeks there in July 1997 and again in August 1998. I was an Air Force Reservist pulling my Annual Tour. I would have been there in 1999 if I wasn’t offered a promotion. I spent more time awake, because I did not want to miss out on the fun. I was stationed in Lajesfield Air Base, where I spent all of my free time at Praia and Angra. There were other villages I stopped by to check out. What I missed the most was the food, scenery and the great lava pool. I might take a vacation there when I am completely retired. :-)
Very informative article. I would be interested to know more about the cost of living in the Azores; about how much for a nice 2 bedroom apartment? taxes? Food, etc…Do they have a robust internet/wireless/telephone infrastructure? Could you run a small internet based business there? Maybe you’ll be writing about that next, so I should probably be patient. It just sounds so perfect and beautiful. I have friends in Costa Rica who are moving back to the US because the cost of living there has skyrocketed. Friends in other parts of South America who are very concerned about the increasing crime rates and narco-trafficing, so The Azores sound very attractive.
Thanks!
Ken
Sounds great Casey, thanks for revealing your paradise with no selfish intent!
Very good of you.
As an add on from a long living in Azores:
Thereis more islands no spoken about in this article. Casey is living in the largest island, but there are others equally beutifull. All are beautifull, all differente, they are nine nations.
Casey does not mention Terceira Island where lays the historic city of Angra do Heroísmo, UNRSCO world Patrimony Heritage, the historical capital of the Azores. Terceira Osland is also where is installed an USAF air base _ Lajes, since 1944. In most of the islands there is a strong internet service as well as cable TVand cell phones. Depending on package on cable(I hvae ZON) one may have free phone calls to most of the countries, including USA and Canada.
For the lovers of USA history search for a Peter Francisco, hero of the American Revolution, one man army as is called by many historians.
I live in Terceira Island, as you may have guess already. I travelled throughout all of them, but this island hooked . Beautifull as any of the others, magnificent city of Angra, excellent people, Festivities of a very charcteristic type are on all year round and everyone is invited on sight to participate. English is spoken by a great majority of people, and if you start to learn a few Portuguese, then you are in heavens. There many USmilitary retirees reiding here. A couple got married locally. Housing is not that cheap, but not as expensive as most touristic places; 400euros/month get you a nice small apartment. 150 000 and up one may buy a house. The harassment is not that big, but slow it is the process of registration, but you may move in in most cases if you sign a contarct and enter a down payment.
USA military retirees and many many active duty military of all brtanches are unanimous to say that Lajes and the Azores are the best kept secret of USAF.
Any information you need drop a message to me joefmorgado@gmail.com
I lived here from 1989-1990 and it was wonderful. Warm and friendly people, a culture that cherishes family and children and natural beauty everywhere you look . . . from the waves crashing against black lava cliffs to the birds of paradise and calla lilies that grow wild. And don’t forget a fantastic golf course. Would love to go back for an extended stay.
Ola Casey,
We have lived on Sao Miguel for over 6 years, first 3 renting in Caloura and then purchased a wonderful
Condo (todos janelas com visto do mar) in Santa Cruz, Lagoa. I wrote my Azores Journal the first year we were here and it has brought tourists to the island from all over the world, hence the Azorean Government honored us with a Natal flash-card that went global using my words and my husband’s photography. Go to my website and click on the card. They did a great job and we have tried also to give back since I am teaching and have taught English conversation at the Morada da Escrita in Ponta Delgada.
There are some things you are leaving out, such as the fact that you cannot be a permanent resident but receive a TEMPORARY residency renewable every 2 years (or 5 years but only if you are fluent in spoken and written Portuguese) Right now the Azores are in a major slump economically and poverty is on the rise, best time to purchase property though just make sure you have clear and clean title. The health-care system is wonderful on Sao Miguel, if you need hospital care, especially important for retired folks like us, you don’t want to be on Flores (Aldeia de Cuado is gorgeous), Faial, or any of the other islands. Sao Miguel has two excellent hospitals and wonderful physicians who are here from the Continent because of the better quality of life though they earn less but they are very dedicated. Starting an Internet business would be o.k. I guess but looking for a job, even if you are a professional, at this time is impossible, tons of Azoreans are leaving for Brazil or Canada, even Angola to find work to feed their families. I like Vila Franco do Campo, especially Ilheu but we chose Santa Cruz, Lagoa – better educated people though give me any Azorean farmer and he will be just as nice and helpful as the majority of Azoreans are. Never met a more friendly and hard- working people in my life who also knowing how to have a great FESTA and relax on fim de semana. Being born and raised in Germany but an American citizen having lived in Manhattan, Chicago, New Yersey and on an island off the South Coast of MA near Cape Cod (38 years in the States) we just had to see the Azores for ourselves and the Schengen Visa came through once we decided on Sao Miguel for my husband, myself and our two cats in record time of 6 weeks. Destiny for sure! We have wonderful Azorean friends, are not interested in belonging to any expat community but rather blend into the local culture we have not looked back once over the past six and a half years. Please don’t try to attract too many US expats, it would spoil our little paradise, ever think of that? Much has changed during the time we have lived here, no Scut then, more small cars and more horse-drawn wagons we miss. We withdrew almost immediately from the German expat community in Bretanha, if living in the Azores, get to know the Azoreans and get to love them. Anyone interested in the story of my first year on Sao Miguel, go to my website
http://www.ingeperreault.eu and read the monthly journals.